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Repair Summary
The following article provides detailed instructions on replacing the brake pads and rotors on a BMW E46 3 series car. Even though we have used a 2003 BMW 325ci to perform this repair, this article can be applied to any E46 3 series vehicle, including the 323i, 328i and 330i coupe, sedan and convertible.
See all vehicles this article applies to
E46 3 Series 325ti
E46 3 Series 318td
E46 3 Series 320td
E46 3 Series 318ti
E46 3 Series 330xi
E46 3 Series 330i
E46 3 Series 330xd
E46 3 Series 330d
E46 3 Series 316ti
E46 3 Series 328i
E46 3 Series 325xi
E46 3 Series 325i
E46 3 Series 320i
E46 3 Series 323i
E46 3 Series 320d
E46 3 Series 318i
E46 3 Series 318d
E46 3 Series 316i
E46 3 Series M3 CSL
E46 3 Series M3
E46 3 Series 330Ci
E46 3 Series 330Cd
E46 3 Series 325Ci
E46 3 Series 323Ci
E46 3 Series 320Ci
E46 3 Series 320Cd
E46 3 Series 318Ci
E46 3 Series 328Ci
E46 3 Series 316Ci
E46 3 Series 323i 2.4
E46 3 Series 316i 1.9
E46 3 Series 316i 1.6
A BMW E46 brake repair is a relatively easy job for the "do it yourself" home mechanic. It can save a BMW owner a substantial amount of money, compared to having the dealership do the work.
Most BMW home mechanics have come to realize there are some repairs that can save them a fair amount of money...then there are some repairs that can save an enormous amount. A BMW E46 brake repair falls into the latter of the two.
Why is doing a BMW brake repair yourself so inexpensive? Two words...parts and labor. The dealership will only install factory parts with a price tag much higher than what you can buy them for online (they have to make a profit...right?). Since most BMW owners are intimidated by working on their own brake system, the dealership takes advantage of this and charges an arm and a leg for labor. Replacing the brake pads and rotors on your BMW is fairly simple and requires just a modest amount of mechanical acumen. In fact, the hardest part of the job is often removing the old pads and rotors off of the car, especially if your last BMW brake repair was done years ago and the vehicle has been sitting outside. Pads and rotors will rust to the wheel hub making the use of a large heavy hammer necessary to get them off.
Unless you are a hardcore purist, there is no need to use Genuine BMW factory brake parts on your vehicle. Your biggest decision will be deciding between semi-metallic or ceramic brake pads. We like using ceramic because it can handle higher braking temperatures, recover more quickly after frequent stopping, and generate less brake dust. Usually, the price difference between ceramic and semi-metallic brake pads is minimal...so it really depends on your own preference.
Always replace your brake pad sensors when performing a BMW E46 brake repair. Replacing your sensors will help avoid errant brake error lights in your instrument cluster after you complete the repair.
It is strongly recommended that you flush and bleed your brake system after every BMW brake repair. Read our article on flushing and bleeding your brake system for more details.
View the detailed parts diagram for this repair.
Includes detailed part diagrams, part numbers and links to purchase all of the required components needed to complete this repair.
Section 1 - Replacing the BMW E46 Brake Pads and Rotors
- Jack and support both ends of your vehicle using the “jack stand” method. Please click here to learn how to properly jack and support your vehicle for this repair.
- Using an impact wrench (or 1/2" breaker bar) with a 17mm socket, remove the lug nuts and wheels from the entire car.
- Starting with the left front wheel, remove the anti-rattle clip using a large flat blade screwdriver as shown below.
- Use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the protective caps off of the back of each caliper guide bolt.
- Using a 7mm hex socket, remove the two caliper guide bolts securing the caliper to the caliper carrier.
- Remove the brake pad wear sensor by unclipping it from the inside brake pad. Note - brake pad wear sensors are only located on front left and rear right brakes.
- Grasp caliper with both hands and remove from brake rotor. You may need to use a large flat blade screwdriver to pry the brake caliper piston back off of the interior brake pad too loosen the caliper up enough for removal.
- Remove the old brake pads from the caliper.
- Using a 17mm socket wrench, remove the two bolts securing the caliper carrier to the steering arm. These bolts are torqued tight...use a hammer or a breaker bar if necessary to initially loosen bolts.
- Spray the rotor set screw with PB Blaster or equivalent, and let sit for 5 minutes. The rotor set screws get very corroded and are often difficult, if not impossible, to remove if not sprayed with a penetrating oil.
- Use a 6mm hex socket to remove the rotor set screw. Remove old rotor from wheel hub. You may need to "bang" the rotor with a hammer if it is rusted to the hub, which is normally the case.
- Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor by removing it from the steering arm wire mounts. Open the junction box in wheel well and unplug the brake pad sensor. Replace with new sensor. The right rear sensor is done exactly the same, the only difference being the junction box is located forward of the wheel well in rear fender.
- Install new brake rotor and secure with new rotor set screw.
- Use a brake piston compression tool to compress the caliper piston back into the caliper. This is necessary to create enough space for brake pads to clear brake rotor.
- Reinstall the pad carrier. Torque the two pad carrier bolts as follows: Front carrier bolts 110 Nm (81 ft-lb), Rear carrier bolts 65 Nm (48 ft-lb).
- Using a bottle of synthetic brake disk lubricant, generously apply a layer to the back of each brake pad...especially where they slide on the calipers. Wipe any excess grease off the front of the pads.
- Place the pads inside the brake caliper as shown below. Slide the caliper back on the rotor.
- Reinstall the caliper guide bolts and torque to the following value: 30 Nm (22 ft-lb).
- Reattach the new brake pad sensor by clipping it back it the rear brake pad. Note - it may be snug...try using a flat blade screw driver to "push" it into its slot.
- After all of the brake maintenance is completed, replace wheels and torque lug nuts to 110 Nm (80 ft-lb).
- Starting with the left front wheel, remove the anti-rattle clip using a large flat blade screwdriver as shown below.
Section 2 - Bleeding the Brake System
It is strongly recommended that you flush and bleed your brake system after every BMW brake repair. Read our article on flushing and bleeding your brake system for more details.BMW E46 Brake Repair Finished
